Trekking up the ridge towards the summit trekking in Bougmez – High Atlas Mountains, Morocco
Just £90 and three and a half hours on a plane we found ourselves in a different world. Morocco, as many know is but a short hop and a skip from Europe. But culturally it is a very different place. Stepping out in Marrakesh for the first time, the senses are inundated. It is easy to get caught up in the vibrancy and chaotic pace of the desert city. The colour and welcome calls from the souks, the acrobatics and cheery smiles of street performers and shouts and smells from the spice markets combine to make Marrakesh a very welcoming and interesting place. Whether you are looking to haggle for a large glass lantern (that you obviously don’t need) or a wooden chess set (that you obviously don’t want). Whether you wish to see the incredible architecture and explore the coloured history of this incredible walled city or if you simply fancy taking life a bit easier and – to share some mint tea and watch the hectic life go by. Then Marrakesh has a lot to offer.
However, we were not in Morocco to lounge around Marrakesh for a week. We were in Morocco to experience trekking in the High Atlas Mountains. A spectacular range that boasts some of the highest peaks in Africa, and certainly some of the best trekking.
So soon after arriving in Marrakesh we were on our way out to the Bougmez valley. An area several hours outside of Marrakesh and some may think an odd choice. Toubkal is the favoured choice for many, not only is it the highest peak in Morocco it is also only an hour or so away from Marrakesh. But because it was the popular choice, we wanted to go elsewhere and experience something a bit further off the well-trodden path
So after an interesting journey consisting of narrow roads, high passes, a lot of swerving and even more Arabic pop music, we arrived with our guide at one of the most spectacular landscapes I have ever seen.
The village was built in the classic Berber style, with dun coloured houses made from the local stone and earth, one and two story buildings with flat roofs staring out to the Bougmez valley. A series of snow-capped peaks seemingly on top each other working their way down into the near distance where the green valley was sliced in two by a wide meandering river. And that was where the next day we would be working our way up, we were excited!
That night was the first of several nights in the high atlas where everything seemed as if it couldn’t really get any better. We stayed in a local house quite high up in the valley, where we drank coffee and mint tea and watched the setting sun throw an array of colours over the spectacular vista. Our guide later cooked us a traditional Moroccan tagine and we sat on the small, roughly hewn veranda and discussed the upcoming trek it was undoubtedly everything you could hope adventure travel can offer.
The beautiful valley
The trek
The plan was a four day trek. With the first day hiking through the valley and up over the first ridge to a mountain shelter at the base of the peaks. Day 2 would be a push for the summit of Bougmez and days three and four would be the hike back down to the valley floor.
Day one started beautifully. Ever since we saw the route the day before, both my girlfriend and I could not wait to get started. The weather was warm (to say the least), and with the incline we were soon sweating buckets, but enjoying it just the same. Given the village and hillsides all around were so dry, it was incredible seeing just how green and lush the valley floor is.
The morning took us past local farmers, ploughing the fields with donkeys, local children playing in the streams which run off the river as well as numerous locals and farm animals. As we headed up we walked through several fertile farming areas, which were becoming increasingly remote from village life. Before we knew it we had hiked above the tree line and were struggling up the dryer and parched mountainside. The path was well worn, though steep and gravelly. But secure enough to allow for easy enough ascent. The only real difficulty was the heat which had grown in intensity as the morning wore on.
Just after midday we hit the beginning of the snow, and as we hit the top of the first ridge and gasping for a break it seemed like a great opportunity to take lunch. Provided by our cheerful guide, we ravenously devoured the local delicacies offered (some more identifiable than others), but all gratefully accepted after our energetic morning.
Taking a break before tackling the ridge
Lunch finished we crept over the first ridge and attached crampons in order to ascend the icy side of the next ridge. Now on a more exposed side of the mountain, the icy wind raked us from the back, whilst the sun’s glare off the ice attacked us from the front. This part was harder going, I wouldn’t say it was not enjoyable but we were glad when we reached the next ridge and so could begin a slight descend towards the floor that served as a base for the surrounding peaks. With the shelter in sight we enjoyed the last stretch before the end of the day. Not only had climbing over the last ridge released a new and completely stunning new setting the snow all around became really deep and several times my girlfriend and I found ourselves thigh deep and giggling, having great fun despite the long and weary day.
Spending the night at the shelter was an interesting experience. It was a roughly hewn, single story stone shelter consisting of 3 rooms; a small, very basic kitchen area, and two bedrooms. At the foot of peaks all around and surrounded by snow, it truly was in the middle of nowhere! At the shelter already were several porters and guides along with a club of European cross country skiers. It was a real mix of people and we sat outside chatting and admiring the view. Some of the porters had had the foresight to bring up some beer. They sold this on at high prices, but still less than you would pay at home – with a view that was far removed from anything you could get at home.
Sun set on the mountains leaving the hut in complete darkness, and we all retreated inside for the night and to escape the freezing temperatures. The shelter had a huge fire place that was roaring with life and kicking out some serious heat – meaning our season 4 sleeping bags were a bit redundant.
The next day the plan was to climb the peak of Bougmez. However, Mother Nature decided this was not to be. Our guide, waking us up in the early hours, took us outside the hut to show us what was essentially a white out. In the relative calm down at the rufage it was not too bad but the peaks that were all around yesterday had disappeared into a sheet of white. In broken English he explained it was too dangerous to attempt to climb. Which was disappointing, but later hearing that this peak is supposedly the most dangerous in the high Atlas, we were glad we didn’t insist.
There was only one thing left to do that was to go back to bed. Due to the short timescale of our trek we were left with a choice, to descend back to the valley floor and then have a day trekking through the local foothills. Or wait out the weather and see if it cleared and so try to summit the next day. As there was no guarantee the weather would improve, we chose to descend. So we packed up and headed back down the mountain. Disappointed we had to cut it short, but it had undoubtedly been an amazing hike all the same. The silver lining was that we suddenly found ourselves with a few extra days in this beautiful valley. More exploring was to come!
Bougmez valley
Trekking in the valley
Unable to summit, we made our way back down the to the valley floor. Taking the same route we had the day before was no less spectacular from the other direction. Making good progress we were also able to spend time with some of the villagers who very kindly shared with us mint tea and freshly baked bread. Experiencing true hospitality and sharing a moment with the local people was a privilege, and one so far removed from the engineered cultural shows or similar products created on mass by travel companies. It was a real privilege.
Our new plan, was a simple trek through the valley, which we then began the following day. As with the previous experiences of this valley, local people were genuinely interested in interacting with us and sharing what they had. It was very humbling. Just like the landscape.
The snow peaks all around were stunning to behold and it was an image that didn’t bore you throughout the whole day. In short it was breath taking. As day faded we arrived at our very basic overnight accommodation, a simple room with a mattress. But it was clean and anything more would have felt like too much.
The last thing to note on this spectacular experience was the night sky. So far away from any towns or cities, with no light (or other) pollution, combined with a very clear night to give the best display of stars I have ever seen.
Overall
Overall, the trekking was fairly tough, particularly the climb to the summit and I am sure that if we had been able to summit, that would have been still harder yet. But it was spectacular, and perhaps even more importantly it was a real experience far off the beaten track.